A Missouri region's unique ecological conditions and distilled spirits could receive an even larger spotlight under a bill in the Missouri House.
The bill would allow spirits mashed, fermented, aged, distilled and bottled in the Ozark Highlands ecoregion, and aged in barrels from the region or made from Missouri white oak to be designated as Ozark Highland spirits. If certified, these spirits could be labeled as a product of the region and sold with the designation.
Spirits would also have to be distilled using environmentally safe water and aged four years.
The region in question, which is mostly encapsulated by Missouri's central and southwestern regions starting just south of Jefferson City, also bleeds into Arkansas with small portions in Kansas and Oklahoma.
The Ozark Highlands is one of nine highland regions in the world which are distinct for their soil's mineral composition and limestone base, according to testimony on the bill. The water there lacks iron, leading to an overall cleaner fermentation and a smoother, more delicate final product than spirits produced in other areas, a uniqueness proponents said the bill would allow the state to capitalize on.
Rep. Derek Grier, R- Chesterfield, presented his bill before the House General Laws Committee this week, touting it as a chance for the state to highlight a unique quality of the state and its products.
"We have the opportunity here to create the distinction of the Ozark Highlands for these spirits that are distilled within our state," Grier said. "I think it would be a great opportunity to recognize that and call out the very specific way of producing it that has been developed over years and years in our state, and it will certainly help the industry that's here in our state to grow, to be more distinguished within the country and within the world for what we're doing here. It's very special, and it's important that we recognize that."
Grier pointed to iconic beverages closely associated with the region they were produced in. True champagne, for instance, only comes from the Champagne wine region of France, which adheres to specific sourcing, pressing and fermentation methods that create a unique product associated with the area.
"There's lot of other spirits and wines and other things that are produced around the world that are distinguished by the region they're from," he said. "If we want to encourage the industry that is here, providing what this bill does will allow them to do it."
Demetrious Cain, founder of Nobletons Distilling House, testified in favor of the bill. Cain's distillery is located in Marthasville, around 60 miles east of Jefferson City, and sits at the very edge of the region. He also owns and operates farms throughout the Highlands.
"We are located in the Ozark Highlands, and we are the first to begin producing under the designation Ozark Highland whiskey," Cain said. "It is really important to us to have the designation that not only fosters within Missouri an inclusive production standard for developing a spirit that's part of a prestigious and geographically complex area, but also so that, on an international and national level, we're able to compete by developing a spirit that can hold a similar standard to that of bourbon or scotch."
Cain said the bill was broad and inclusive enough to extend to a plethora of Missouri distillers. He said the designation would not only make Missouri brands more prominent and revered across the country and internationally, it could bolster smaller communities that house distilleries with tourism and commerce while potentially bringing other businesses into the area to take part in the unique regional opportunity.
The Missouri Craft Distillers Guild, which Cain serves as its secretary, has had its eye on the possibility of a designation. He said the guild was in talks to develop a smaller guild dedicated to Ozark Highlands distillers, with its establishment expected at some point this year.
Nearly half of the guild's membership is in the Ozark Highlands region, Cain said.
White Oak barrels are also a unique Missouri feature, he said. The Show Me State is the largest grower of white oaks in the U.S., with eight variations found throughout the state. The wood is waterproof and swells when soaked due to a plastic-like coating on its cells, according to the Missouri Department of Conservation. It is also the most durable among categories of oak, MDC said.
Cain's distillery currently ships white oak to New York for aging and barrel construction, though he said the guild was looking into ways to bolster Missouri's manufacturing footprint as well.
No one testified in opposition to the bill, though several lawmakers expressed their support for the opportunity to bolster the industry in Missouri.
The committee did not take executive action on it this week.
Click the link below to read the full bill:
• HB 2621: Ozark Highland spirits
Sponsor: Rep. Derek Grier