Q. I just love peonies, but there are so many different kinds. Do you have any recommendations?
A. As with many plants, peonies have benefitted from some breeding improvements. There are now types that stay upright quite well, even when the flower is fully formed and gets wet. In the past, gardeners would ring the plant with a wire cage to prevent the plant from flopping over. So this is no longer necessary with the right variety. But if you get your plants from someone with an old-fashioned type, beware. If you have room, consider a selection of white, red and pink forms. Some open up more fully than others, so if you like that trait, look for those. I've seen some pink flowering types with some yellow - very nice.
Q. I have seeded green onions, and it says to thin them to every 2 inches. They are at about 1 inch. Do I really need to do this?
A. If you want to get the onions to "size up," similar to the ones you buy at the store, then yes, you should. If not, they will likely stay quite thin, kind of like chives. If you don't care if they are small/thin, then you don't need to.
Thinning to the recommended spacing is even more important for root crops like radishes and carrots. If you don't for these, the root won't enlarge much at all. In that case you don't get anything much to use, if any.
The recommended spacing for radishes is the closest (1 inch). For carrots, beets, green onions and turnips, space at 2-3 inches. If you want larger roots or your garden gets a bit shady, increase the spacing another inch or two. Kohlrabi should be spaced at about 4 inches.
Q. I got brown patch in my tall, turf-type fescue lawn last year. When should I apply a fungicide to prevent it? Which fungicides work better?
A. You are correct that preventively applying a fungicide for control of this disease is best. With this disease, just as it starts is the best. One way to detect it early is to scout shady areas, where it will generally appear a week or so earlier. The disease generally comes on in early to mid-June. It is favored by long durations of leaf wetness (like dew), daytime temperatures in the mid-80s and nighttime temperatures in the mid- to upper 60s, high humidity, and frequent rainfall. The cool weather this past week may have pushed it back a bit, but warm and muggy weather can move in any time.
The most effective fungicides are commercial products, meaning they have to be sourced from specialty businesses or have a lawn company do the application for you. There are more than 20 active ingredients labeled for control of brown patch, and these will be marketed under a number of trade/brand names at garden centers and the like. Contact us if you need more specifics.
Cultural control options should be considered. First, do NOT apply nitrogen fertilizer to a tall, turf-type fescue lawn May through August. It stimulates the grass to grow more soft and lush, increasing its disease susceptibility. Secondly, mow at the optimum height, which is 3-4 inches, and have a sharp blade. Lastly, consider having a lawn with a mixture of grasses. Popular cool season grasses less susceptible to brown patch are perennial ryegrass, Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescue.
Q. I have patches of iris and daffodils that used to flower. Every year they seem to have less. They were great 10 or 20 years ago. What can I do?
A. If they are in an area that has become shady, then that is the likely culprit, and they will have to be relocated to a sunnier place. If they get a decent amount of sun (six to eight hours or more in May), then they may have gotten too thick. If too thick, they need to be dug, broken up and replanted so there are fewer in a given area. Late July through September is the best time to do this for iris. For daffodils, fall is the best time. Mark where they are so you can find them in the fall.
The Central Missouri Master Gardeners are a volunteer group of 191 members, 122 of whom are Cole County residents, who maintain 11 beautification sites in Cole County, which are nonprofits or public entities. Master Gardeners must complete a basic training program of at least 30 hours of horticultural training, as well as 30 hours of volunteer service. The Missouri Master Gardener program is supported by the University of Missouri Extension.
Have a gardening question of your own? The Master Gardener Hotline is open from 12:30-4:30 p.m. Tuesday and Friday afternoons. Call 634-2824 or stop by the Cole County Extension Center at 2436 Tanner Bridge Road, or email your question to [email protected] for possible inclusion in a future "Ask a Master Gardener" column.