Q. I planted Detroit Dark Red beet seeds on March 10. They sprouted and the tops have been growing nicely. However, as often happens, the beets are not developing underground. I applied granular 12-12-12 fertilizer to the entire garden in early March before tilling. Can you explain why my beets do not develop well? (I planted radishes nearby, and they produced very well.)
A. The most common reason for root or bulb vegetables failing to size up is the spacing is too close. They often need to be thinned. A standard spacing is 2 inches apart within the row and rows 18 inches apart. If the location gets some shade, then the spacing can be increased to 3 inches within the row. A beet seed is really an entire ripened ovary that contains several seeds, so it is very easy to have too many, compared to a radish. Some companies sell pelletized beet seed now, which only has one seed per pellet. Another reason the radish may size up where beets don't is radish roots are smaller. I found one garden reference that had radish thinning recommendation of about half of that for beets (twice as close). Radishes also size up their roots quicker than beets - radishes in 25 to 30 days and beets taking 50 to 60. If you like beet greens, eat the leaves of the ones you are thinning out.
Q. Every time I plant something, the neighborhood cats dig it up or use it as a litter box. I've sprayed and left powders, but the rain washes it away. What else can I do?
A. Well, "why" is most likely because it is a cat's natural instinct to dig and deposit in soft or loose soil, moss, mulch or sand. Off-smelling things (to a cat) sometimes work, with suggestions being to scatter fresh orange and lemon peels or spray with citrus-scented fragrances, and also items like coffee grounds, vinegar, pipe tobacco, or oil of lavender, lemongrass, citronella or eucalyptus.
A physical option that makes sense is to put something down around the plants afterward to prevent them from digging. Here are some suggestions. Arrange branches in a lattice-type pattern or place wooden or plastic lattice fencing material over soil. You can also try embedding wooden chopsticks, pine cones or sticks with dull points deep into the soil with the tops exposed 8 inches apart. Use weed barrier (usually a black, plastic material that lets water through) around individual transplants. Set rocks or similar to hold down, or buy U-shaped pins to hold down. This material has the added benefit of suppressing weeds and reduces diseases on some plants, most notably tomatoes.
Lastly, you may have a high cat population for other reasons, ranging from places for feral cats to sleep, to garbage containers or being accessible to wildlife attracting them (e.g. birds or rodents like voles). These things may not be under your control, being a neighbor or general site issue. An interesting suggestion was to create a place for them to do their business, described as "establish an outdoor litter box by tilling the soil or placing sand in an out-of-the-way spot in your yard." Keep it clean and free of deposits. There is the saying: "People train dogs and cats train people."
Q. What is the best way to keep hanging baskets of flowering annuals from becoming barren in the middle?
A. This is best addressed by fertilizing sufficiently coupled with cutting them back at the right time. Regarding fertilizing, start by asking about the baskets or reviewing any label they came with. Has a time-release fertilizer been included in the soil mix? If it has, then adding additional fertilizer about a month later would be good, or using a liquid fertilizer at two-week intervals. If no time-release fertilizer has been added, then liquid fertilizer can be applied each week with watering. Generally sometime in July or August, most plants get too big for the baskets, and cutting the plants back will reinvigorate them. Cut them back "hard," meaning to about 2 to 4 inches long. If it is a plant that turns a bit woody, try to leave some "green," as regrowth will be quicker. Fertilize immediately, using a liquid for an immediate boost, and a time release (those beads or pellets) or top dress with compost. Most plants will respond very quickly with new growth and good blooms. If plants frequently get too dry, a similar appearance can follow. Regular watering is then the best remedy.
The local Master Gardener hotline is staffed from 12:30-4:30 p.m. Tuesday and Friday afternoons; call 634-2824 then or anytime to leave a message. The Central Missouri Master Gardeners are a volunteer group of 191 members, 122 of whom are Cole County residents, who maintain 11 beautification sites in Cole County. Master Gardeners must complete a basic training program of at least 30 hours of horticultural training including landscaping, lawns, vegetables, flowers and fruits, as well as 30 hours of volunteer service.
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