Traditional tandoori chicken at home

This undated photo provided by America's Test Kitchen in May 2019 shows Tandoori Chicken with Raita in Brookline, Mass. This recipe appears in the cookbook "Spiced.” (Joe Keller/America's Test Kitchen via AP)
This undated photo provided by America's Test Kitchen in May 2019 shows Tandoori Chicken with Raita in Brookline, Mass. This recipe appears in the cookbook "Spiced.” (Joe Keller/America's Test Kitchen via AP)

Traditional tandoori chicken is marinated in yogurt and spices and roasted in a superhot tandoor oven to produce tender, flavorful meat and a beautiful char. To make it at home, we built a fragrant paste, blooming ginger and garlic in oil before adding garam masala, cumin and chili powder.

We used this paste twice, applying some directly to the meat, which we slashed so the flavors penetrated, and stirring the rest into yogurt for our marinade. Arranged on a wire rack set in a baking sheet, our chicken roasted gently and evenly in a moderate oven; a few minutes under the broiler delivered char.

A quick raita cooled things down. If you are using large chicken breasts (about 1 pound each), cut each breast into three pieces. We prefer to use our homemade Garam Masala (recipe follows) and Everyday Chili Powder (recipe follows), but you can substitute store-bought spices. Serve with rice.

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