Q: What happened to my boxwood? What should I do now?
A: Wait for the new spring growth to start. Make sure where the growth is brown to NOT prune if you see green buds forming; give it additional time if needed. To aid in the recovery, consider fertilizing with a standard fertilizer for shrubs. Raking back the mulch and sprinkle in amount suggested. Then return the mulch. A good time for fertilizer is when the new growth starts. Water them if we have an extended dry spell.
To prevent in future years, water a couple of times through the winter, if dry. For this past year, once in November and another in mid-winter may have helped. I understand it seems odd to water plants in the winter, but evergreens continue to transpire, since they have green leaves.
Q: How long can I wait to apply crabgrass preventer? I know it is recommended to between April 1-15.
A: You are right that the cold weather has set things back. We are a full three to four weeks behind, maybe even more. I would say about May 7 is a good guess. The sun is gaining in intensity, so the soil can warm rather quickly if we return to normal temperatures. One needs rain to activate the crabgrass preventer, so it may take a few days or a week to activate.
Q: What can I till into vegetable garden soil to improve organic matter?
A: The easiest product is peat moss. It should readily break down and not tie up nitrogen in the soil, like wood waste products typically do. A screened and good quality compost is another possibility, but don't apply more than the product package recommends. You could easily over fertilize. Use of mulch during this growing season will help organic matter the next year. Products like straw, old leaves and finely shredded wood will decompose through the summer. They can be incorporated that fall or the spring.
Q: I have moss in my lawn, both in the shade and even coming into sunny areas. I know my pH is low; is that the problem?
A: Moss growth in lawns indicates conditions are too poor for grass. Acidic soil (low pH) is often a reason, but other things can be as well. These are compacted soil, low fertility (as in a major nutrient like phosphorus, potassium or calcium), and wet areas. Moss likes shady and moist conditions, tolerates acid soils and can withstand drought conditions.
Q: I need to apply lime and the pelletized lime is easier to put down. The soil test recommendation just gives "lime." Is all lime the same? How do I know how much to apply?
A: For home gardeners, the lime recommendation is kept simple. It assumes you are purchasing a good quality lime, and pelletized lime should (in general) be good quality. To help the home gardener from making an error, it says to apply no more than 50 pounds per 1,000 square feet at once, and then wait six months to apply more. It then says to check your soil every two to three years (two years after the last lime addition for problem soils). Where the pH is being corrected substantially, one will likely have to apply more.
The advantage of ag or bulk lime versus pelletized lime is its cost. The negatives are it doesn't flow through a spreader easily and its powdery nature will get all over you, your clothes and downwind objects like clean windows.
Q: I know I should have seeded grass in the fall or earlier, but with it so cold, can I still seed? If so, any tips? It's not a big area.
A: Seeding of smaller areas of bare spots would be reasonable, but the expense of doing larger areas could be risky. Scratch the seed into the ground and apply a light layer of straw. Try to water every couple of days if no rain to bring up quickly. When summer heat or dry conditions hit, water occasionally so the grass stays somewhat green. Laying sod is a good alternative.