Even though James Quinn is retired, he still answers a question now and then. Here is one:
Q. I don't see the usual pollinating insects so far this spring. Early on, I saw two or three cabbage moths and even those are not around. Please tell me they will be arriving soon.
A. That's interesting; I was wondering a bit the same thing. We'll blame it on the weather, as it has been a very cool spring. I did have the usual honeybees, bumblebees and carpenter bees around on their typical woody plants and early perennial flowers A few butterflies have wafted through. The reliable hoverflies on my asyllium haven't shown in any number, but we've hardly been above 65 average temperature for more than just one day at a time, so some insects are likely requiring a minimum to hit before they really "hatch out." I expect a lot of activity to happen with this warmer weather of the weekend. When it is Memorial Day weekend and bush garden beans won't even emerge (yet), it's darn cool.
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One discussion topic that always arises among tomato growers is what is the best way to support the vines, stakes or cages, or if they should be left to grow on the ground naturally with no support. The last couple of years, I have added another method called the Florida weave. I usually end up doing a little of all the above methods with the "on the ground naturally" the result of a broken stake, toppled cage or a missed weave.
I like the ease of a cage and not having to prune the plants (removing suckers, or side shoots, that grow in the crotch between the stem and a branch). When plants are grown in cages, less pruning is required. Break off only enough suckers to allow good light and air movement through the cage. Determinate and semi-determinate varieties typically do not require pruning. However, large-vine (indeterminate) varieties benefit from the removal of some of their side shoots or from being topped to prevent plants from becoming too bushy and tall for the cage.
I do like the tidy look and easy harvest of a staked tomato, but that look and ease comes at a price. Of all the methods, the staked method requires the most time and attention. During the early summer months, tomatoes can grow very quickly, so you have to be on top of the pruning and tying or they will become unruly in a hurry. Stakes work best on indeterminate tomato varieties. Be sure to get a stake tall enough to accommodate the tomato variety.
Several people have inquired about the Florida wave method, so I will give a short explanation. I put the tomato plants about 2 feet apart in the row and put a post at each end of the row; I use T-posts. Install additional posts every two plants.
When the plants are about 12 inches tall, pinch off the "suckers." Tie one end of the tomato twine to an end post about 8 inches up. Now weave in and out of the plant and post to the other end post, keeping the twine tight, make a loop around each post. Make a loop around the last post and start weaving back to the first post, being sure to "sandwich" the plants between the twine.
If you still can't decide, here are some production statistics gathered from commercial producers that may help you make a choice.
Staked tomato plants averaged 8 pounds of fruit per plant with about 40 percent being No. 1 quality. Trellised tomatoes produced 12 pounds of fruit with 45 percent No 1's. Caged plants produced a whopping 20 pounds per plant with 50 percent as No. 1. Those "free range" plants sprawled out on the ground did pretty well with 15 pounds of fruit, but only 25 percent were No. 1 quality.
With all that knowledge, it is still really just personal preference. If you can't decide, do a little of all; that's what I do.
Happy gardening!
Peter Sutter is a lifelong gardening enthusiast and a participant in the MU Extension's Callaway County Master Gardener program. Gardening questions can be sent to [email protected].