Juicy, tender chicken with plenty of sweet, smoky-flavor

This undated photo provided by America's Test Kitchen in April 2019 shows Barbecued Chicken Kebabs in Brookline, Mass. This recipe appears in the cookbook "Master of the Grill." (Carl Tremblay/America's Test Kitchen via AP)
This undated photo provided by America's Test Kitchen in April 2019 shows Barbecued Chicken Kebabs in Brookline, Mass. This recipe appears in the cookbook "Master of the Grill." (Carl Tremblay/America's Test Kitchen via AP)

In theory, barbecued chicken kebabs sound pretty great: char-streaked chunks of juicy meat lacquered with sweet and tangy barbecue sauce. But without an insulating layer of skin, even the fattiest thigh meat can dry out and toughen when exposed to the blazing heat of the grill - and forget about ultra-lean skinless breast meat.

Our goal was simple: juicy, tender chicken with plenty of sticky-sweet, smoke-tinged flavor. Brining is one common way to safeguard against dry meat, but in this case the brine made the meat so slick that the barbecue sauce refused to stick.

A salt rub worked much better; the rub crisped up on the chicken's exterior as it cooked, forming a craggy surface that the sauce could really cling to.

For incredible depth of flavor as well as juicy meat, we turned to an unusual technique: grinding bacon to a paste and applying it to the salted meat. Combined with both sweet and smoked paprika and a little sugar, our bacon-y rub created chicken that was juicy, tender, and full-flavored, with a smoky depth that complemented the barbecue sauce.

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