Ask a Master Gardener: Managing maple, pear trees and growing native plants

Q. I have a lovely large and mature Japanese maple tree that has gotten too big for the spot (kind of close to the house and is blocking the view from a window). Is it worth moving, or is there another option?

A. The only practical way to move the tree would be with a tree spade, which some landscaping companies have. It is a large piece of equipment, so with the tree close to the house, it would not likely be feasible. It would also cost a bit of money. I asked an area arborist who said, "A large moved tree will usually languish, trying to re-establish a root system for as long as it would take a newly purchased, smaller tree (especially a container grown tree) to successfully establish. This tree would likely catch up to the much larger tree that was relocated."

Another option would be to try trimming it back rather aggressively and keep its growth restricted thereafter - as kind of a big bonsai. Since the only other option is removal, it might be worth a try. As this is a nontraditional approach, I ran that by the arborist, who replied, "that it could be pruned aggressively (and continuously) and kept to a manageable size. Maples in general handle aggressive pruning very well. If choosing this method, utilize proper pruning techniques for best chance of success. While this is certainly not ideal for the plant long term, it's better than the alternative (removal)." Thanks to Hentges Tree Service for assisting with this question.

Q. I have an old pear tree that produces well most years, and I tried to grow other trees from the seed. One grew, but the fruit is small and hard, and besides that, it is thorny. Would it be worthwhile to try and graft some branches from the big tree on it?

A. No. Get rid of that tree, because it is a type from the Callery pear (e.g. Cleveland or Bradford types), which are supposed to be sterile. However, some cross-pollinate and form a wild type plant, of which some are thorny. These thorny ones are considered especially invasive, forming dense thickets. While grafting onto this tree might work, it is likely not a good "rootstock" type tree. Rootstocks are carefully selected for use with the top growth (scion), a scion being selected for its above-ground growth and fruit quality.

If you want another pear, I would suggest purchasing a semi-dwarf pear of an eating quality you desire. To make sure it will be cross-pollinated by your current tree, we need to identify it. My guess is when you have a good pear year, you have more fruit of those than you can use. So, selecting another type of pear would give you a different pear flavor and options for use. There are several good pears recommended for growing in Missouri, such as Harrow, Delight, Moonglow and Seckel.

Q. I am interested in growing some native plants nearby my house along the foundation. I don't want them to get too big. What are some options for them or where to get information on them?

A. Native plants can be established by seed or by purchasing plants. For a formal planting implied with this type of location, using an established plant would likely give you better and quicker results. There is good information about native plants through the organization Grow Native. Their website, grownative.org, has a variety of publications, some that may be quite useful. There is a series of plans given for certain planting applications (Designing with Natives: Easy Landscape Plans). While they have plans for Rain Garden, Butterfly Berm and Mailbox Habitat, among many others, there was none for foundation planting.

Jefferson City is fortunate to have a company just 10 miles south, which is a wonderful resource for native plants, called Missouri Wildflowers Nursery ([email protected] or 573-496-3492). It sells both plants and seeds, and employees should be able to advise you on lower height plants that would match your soil type, sunlight level and how dry or wet the area typically stays. There are many types of native plants; the selection has really improved over the last 10-15 years. There should be options that match your site and desire of growth, flower color, etc.

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