Mid-Missouri fish frys offer up wealth of "soul' food every Friday

Don't give this up for Lent

David Gramlich dumps out a freshly fried batch of swai filets as he and several other Knights hustle to keep pace with demand during a previous Knights of Columbus's Lenten Fish Fry at the Cathedral of St. Joseph.
David Gramlich dumps out a freshly fried batch of swai filets as he and several other Knights hustle to keep pace with demand during a previous Knights of Columbus's Lenten Fish Fry at the Cathedral of St. Joseph.

For Catholics and other Christians, Lent is a time of prayer and abstinence - 40 days of spiritual discipline in preparation for Easter, the greatest holy day of the Christian year.

It's also a time to debate who has the best fish fry.

If you're looking to compare yourself, there will be plenty to choose from starting this evening.

Asking Catholics to identify the top fish fry can incite more loyalty and passion than a bad call against Notre Dame.

A reporter posed the question on the local Facebook group, "JCMO: The Good, Bad and Ugly," which led to dozens of comments and some friendly rivalries.

Everyone was staunch in their various allegiances. Just a few of the favorites were St. Martin's, St. Michael's in Russellville, St. Stanislaus in Wardsville, St. Francis Xavier in Taos, and Most Pure Heart of Mary in Chamois (which also serves frog legs).

Some also suggested St. Margaret in Osage Bend, which has its one and only fish fry of the year from 5-8 p.m. today.

"I will claim to my grave that this is the best fish fry around," said Deacon Fred Schmitz, St. Margaret pastoral administrator. "It's really good. You can't get enough."

Despite the different favorites, one clear theme emerged from the unscientific poll: St. Andrew Church in Holts Summit has a darn good fish fry.

The Knights of Columbus affiliated with the church has been putting it on for 21 years, and they know what makes a good fish fry.

"We have a regular following, and they say we've got the best around," said Tom Mehmert. He and Ed Winkelman have spearheaded the annual project for all 21 years of its existence at St. Andrew.

Mehmert said he takes pride when people come up to him and say, "I didn't like catfish until I came here."

Both, however, are quick to point out Mid-Missouri has many good fish frys, and St. Andrew's fish fry wouldn't be what it is without a team effort between dozens of volunteers from the Knights and the parish.

Despite their humility, their fish frys are huge successes.

In its heyday around 2002 - before other area parishes realized what a good revenue generator fish frys can be - they served one ton of fish in a single day. Revenue around that time funded a good portion of St. Andrew's newest church, dedicated in 2004.

What makes their fish fry so special? First, they serve American-raised catfish with a proprietary blend of seasoning, meaning they're not going to give you the recipe. They cook it in seven heavy, cast-iron butcher pots, then serve it buffet-style, with two serving lines to cut down on waiting.

While the fish is the centerpiece of the meal, there's much more: scratch-made corn bread, cole slaw and hand-cut fries. There's also baked beans, baked potatoes, desserts and drinks. Spaghetti is even served for children and other fish-averse customers.

Some fish frys even cater to those still trying to honor their new year's resolution to eat healthy. The Knights of Columbus-Helias Council in Jefferson City, for example, is one of the few to offer baked fish and boiled shrimp.

"Trust me, I eat it myself. It's really good," said Larry "Tuna" Hentges, the clubroom manager. "That kind of sets us apart from everybody else."

The Rev. Greg Meystrik, pastor at St. Peter Church, doesn't have a direct dog in the fight, since his church doesn't host a fry.

But he attends other fish frys, and said the ones at Knights of Columbus on Tanner Bridge Road and St. Joseph Cathedral are two of his favorites. The Knights of Columbus, he said, often go out of their way to wait on and help the elderly residents.

He said the dinner events dovetail well with St. Peter's Lenten Friday evening services, which focus on remembering Jesus Christ's death on the cross and not turning away from difficulties or challenges in our own lives.

Fish frys, he said, are also a way for communities to bond and for busy families to enjoy a meal together.

"They kind of put more of a small-town sense to things. Everyone's welcome," he said.

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